J. Susi Winery – unexpected wines in an unexpected place

Maybe I was feeling a little sorry for myself for not being out on the Western slope this weekend for Winefest, but I found myself Saturday morning perusing the Denver Post for food and wine events in the metro area. I found that one winery I had not heard of before – J. Susi – was having an open house. I poked around on their web site to learn a little more. Cab….Pinot Grigio…..Zinfandel…..the usual. Then one really caught my eye….CHILI GRIGIO?! I had to check it out.

The winery is housed in a converted barn in Conifer, just a quick 45-minute drive on 285 from downtown Denver. John Susi himself greets you as you walk in and instantly makes you feel as though you’re visiting a friend-of-a-friend who just happens to make some of the best wine around.

His Pinot Grigio was one of my favorites. Incredibly light, ethereal, and dry. I bought a bottle and plan to enjoy it on one of these late summer/early fall days when it’s still hot out. Some heirloom tomatoes with just a bit of sea salt will be perfect with it.

All three of the reds were amazing: an easy-drinking red Zin, a heavier, more robust Zin, and an incredibly smooth Cabernet Savignon Reserve. The cab had all the tobacco and leather tones that I love, without overdoing the coffee/chocolate that tend to flatten it (to me).

At the very end of the tasting, John poured what I’d been waiting for: the Chili Grigio. I was prepared for perhaps a subtle spice in a light white wine….maybe he had somehow gotten the pepper tones of a Carmenere into a white wine?

Nope. There’s actually a chili pepper in the bottom of the bottle. If you try this, be prepared to be shocked. It’s the most unusual wine tasting I’ve ever experienced. I was tentative at first, but then intrigued as the heat dissipated and what was left was a wonderful spicy coolness. I decided to buy a bottle to cook with and perhaps to sip just a 1/2 glass….

That evening, I marinated chicken breast in a bit of the Chili Grigio and just a tiny squeeze of fresh lemon juice with fresh ground pepper, red sea salt, and Herbes de Provence. I also used a bit of it to make a very light white wine garlic cream sauce with mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, fresh tomatoes, peas, and artichoke hearts over angel hair pasta. The flavor that the wine gave the chicken & sauce was AMAZING. Even more amazing was how the flavor of the wine itself grows on you, the way spicy foods keep you coming back even after you’re sure you’ve eaten all you can.

And that 1/2 glass I was going to sip? Fuh-get-a-boud-it. It’s time for a return trip.